Blackout curtains block light for better sleep, insulate against summer heat and winter cold, and dampen a little outside noise - which makes them a quiet upgrade for shift workers, nurseries and anyone fighting bright summer mornings. We weighed how completely each one blocks light, the header type and how it hangs, the size and how to convert the inch measurements, and the thermal and soundproof lining. These six run from a 21 dollar BGment short panel up to the 139 dollar Vision Home pinch-pleat drape.
How to choose blackout curtains in Australia
Blackout curtains do three jobs at once: they block light for better sleep, which is a genuine upgrade for shift workers, nurseries and anyone woken by bright summer mornings; they insulate against summer heat and winter cold; and the heavier ones dampen a little outside noise. The first thing to settle is how dark you actually need the room, because there is a real difference between a true 100 percent blackout and a room-darkening panel. After that it comes down to size and how to measure - most of these are sold in inches, so you will need to convert - the header type that decides how it hangs, and whether you want thermal or soundproof lining. This guide covers six blackout curtains from around 21 to 139 dollars, each suited to a different window and budget.
True blackout versus room-darkening
This is the distinction that matters most, and the labels can be misleading. A true blackout, like the Yakamok or the Vision Home pinch-pleat, uses a tight triple-weave or a coated, lined fabric to block almost all the light - a bedroom goes genuinely dark even at midday. A room-darkening panel, like the BGment, DWCN or the JINCHAN at 85 percent, blocks most of the light but a little still glows through, especially in a lighter colour. Neither is wrong - room-darkening is plenty for a living room or a kids room and usually cheaper, while a true blackout is what you want for a shift worker's bedroom or a nursery where every bit of light counts. Decide how dark you genuinely need it before you look at anything else, because it splits the field straight away.
Size and how to measure
Most of these curtains are sized in inches, so the single most useful thing you can do is measure your window and convert. As a quick guide, 84 inches is about 213 cm of drop, 63 inches is about 160 cm, and a 52 inch wide panel is about 132 cm wide. Measure the width of your window and the drop from where the rod will sit to where you want the curtain to end - the floor, the sill or just below it - then match those to the panel sizes. The other half of getting it right is fullness: hang the rod wide and high, and use panels totalling roughly twice your window width so they gather into proper folds and there is no gap at the sides when they are closed. A panel that is exactly the window width will stretch flat and leak light. Always check the listed inch size against your own window before buying.
The header is the top of the curtain, and it decides both how the curtain hangs and how easy it is to put up. Grommet (or eyelet) panels, like the JINCHAN, DWCN and Joydeco, have metal rings punched into the top - they are the easiest to hang and slide open and shut, and they fall into even folds. Rod-pocket panels, like the BGment, have a sewn channel the rod threads through, which gathers softly and looks neat but is slower to open and close. Pinch-pleat panels, like the Vision Home, are the dressiest - the top is sewn into tailored folds and hung with hooks, the same way custom drapery is done, for a made-to-measure look. If you want the simplest install, go grommet; if you want the most refined finish, go pinch-pleat.
Thermal insulation and noise
The lining inside a blackout curtain does more than block light. A thermal-insulated weave, which most panels here have, slows heat moving through the window - keeping a room cooler against the summer sun and warmer against winter cold, which can take the edge off your cooling and heating bills. The heavier and more tightly lined the panel, the better it does this, which is part of why the Yakamok and the heavier Joydeco are worth the step up. That same dense, lined construction also dampens a little outside noise - the Yakamok is sold as soundproof for exactly this reason. Be realistic: a curtain will soften traffic and street noise, not silence a busy road, but combined with the darkness and the insulation, the noise reduction is a welcome bonus rather than the main event.
Sealing the light leaks
Here is the honest truth no product page tells you: even a curtain labelled 100 percent blackout leaks a little light around the edges and over the top, because the fabric itself is opaque but the gaps around it are not. The fix is in how you hang it. Mount the rod wider and higher than the window - extending well past the frame on each side and sitting high above it - so the panels overlap the wall rather than ending at the glass. Overlap the two panels in the middle where they meet so there is no central seam of light. For the most complete seal, add a pelmet or a return that wraps the curtain back to the wall at the sides, closing the gap there. Do these three things and even a mid-priced panel like the Yakamok will black a room out properly - skip them and the most expensive curtain will still glow at the edges.
How much should you spend
You can darken a room well at any price in this guide. The BGment short panels at around 21 dollars prove you do not need to spend much for a thermal, room-darkening curtain - they are ideal for small or short windows, a kids room or a caravan. The JINCHAN at 35 dollars and the DWCN at 38 dollars are the value picks for style and simplicity respectively. The Yakamok at 65 dollars is where most people should land - it is a true 100 percent blackout with thermal and sound benefits and the highest rating here. Stepping up, the Joydeco at 69 dollars buys a heavier, more premium drape, and the Vision Home pinch-pleat at 139 dollars buys a tailored, designer look for a feature window. Decide how dark you need the room and what header suits, then pick the one that nails it - for most people that is the Yakamok.
Our verdict
For most people the Yakamok 100% Blackout Thermal Insulated Soundproof Curtains at around 65 dollars are the smart buy - they are a true 100 percent blackout with thermal insulation and some sound dampening, and at 4.7 stars from a large base they are the highest-rated pick here, which is why they are our pick. If you want the cheapest way in, or you have a small or short window, the BGment short panels at 21 dollars are thermal and room-darkening. Want the linen look? The JINCHAN at 35 dollars keeps the style while blocking most light, and the DWCN at 38 dollars is the simple value all-rounder. For a heavier, more premium drape, the Joydeco at 69 dollars steps up the fabric, and for a tailored designer finish on a feature window, the Vision Home Pinch Pleated drape at 139 dollars hangs in neat, custom-looking folds.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between true blackout and room-darkening curtains?
A true blackout curtain, like the Yakamok (around 65 dollars), uses a tight triple-weave or a coated, lined fabric to block almost all light, so a bedroom goes genuinely dark even at midday. A room-darkening panel, like the BGment (around 21 dollars) or the JINCHAN at 85 percent (around 35 dollars), blocks most of the light but a little still glows through, especially in a lighter colour. Room-darkening is plenty for a living room or kids room, while a true blackout is what you want for a shift worker's bedroom or a nursery where every bit of light counts.
How do I measure for blackout curtains and convert the inch sizes?
Most of these curtains are sized in inches, so measure your window and convert: 84 inches is about 213 cm of drop, 63 inches is about 160 cm, and a 52 inch wide panel is about 132 cm wide. Measure the width of your window and the drop from where the rod will sit to where you want the curtain to end, then match those to the panel sizes. For proper fullness, hang the rod wide and high and use panels totalling roughly twice your window width, so they gather into folds with no gap at the sides. Always check the listed inch size against your own window before buying.
Do blackout curtains block all the light?
Even a curtain labelled 100 percent blackout leaks a little light around the edges and over the top, because the fabric is opaque but the gaps around it are not. The fix is in how you hang it: mount the rod wider and higher than the window so the panels overlap the wall, overlap the two panels in the middle where they meet, and for the most complete seal add a pelmet or a return that wraps the curtain back to the wall at the sides. Do these three things and even a mid-priced panel like the Yakamok (around 65 dollars) will black a room out properly.
Do blackout curtains help with heat and energy bills?
Yes. The thermal-insulated lining inside most blackout curtains slows heat moving through the window - keeping a room cooler against the summer sun and warmer against winter cold, which can take the edge off your cooling and heating bills. The heavier and more tightly lined the panel, the better it does this, which is part of why the Yakamok (around 65 dollars) and the heavier Joydeco (around 69 dollars) are worth the step up. Hanging the curtains wide and high so they cover more of the wall around the window improves the insulation further.
What header type should I choose - grommet, rod-pocket or pinch-pleat?
Grommet (or eyelet) panels, like the DWCN (around 38 dollars) and Joydeco (around 69 dollars), have metal rings in the top and are the easiest to hang and slide open and shut. Rod-pocket panels, like the BGment (around 21 dollars), have a sewn channel the rod threads through, which gathers softly but is slower to open. Pinch-pleat panels, like the Vision Home (around 139 dollars), are the dressiest - sewn into tailored folds and hung with hooks for a custom, made-to-measure look. Go grommet for the simplest install, or pinch-pleat for the most refined finish.
Do blackout curtains reduce noise?
A little. The dense, lined construction that blocks light also dampens some outside noise - the Yakamok (around 65 dollars) is sold as soundproof for exactly this reason. Be realistic: a curtain will soften traffic and street noise rather than silence a busy road, and the heavier, more tightly lined panels do more than thin ones. Combined with the darkness and the thermal insulation, the noise reduction is best thought of as a welcome bonus rather than the main reason to buy.
Which blackout curtains are best for a nursery or a shift worker?
For a nursery or a shift worker who sleeps during the day, you want a true 100 percent blackout so the room goes genuinely dark, not just dim. The Yakamok (around 65 dollars) is the best pick - it blocks almost all light, adds thermal insulation and some sound dampening, and has the highest rating here at 4.7 stars from more than 15,600 ratings. Hang the rod wide and high and overlap the panels in the middle to seal the light leaks, and the room will stay dark through bright mornings and afternoon naps alike.
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